Home insurance also includes the option of contents insurance. However, there is often more to it than this. Not only does the content cover vary depending on the property and possessions you are insuring, but there are a few different types of cover for a number of situations. Knowing which one you are in will help you find the best home insurance policy for you.

Home-owner Cover

This is the most basic and simple form of cover, and does as it implies; protecting the contents of your own home. The principal behind this, as with any contents cover, is to ensure the possessions you own inside the house that cannot afford to replace if they are stolen.

Policies will often feature additional options, such as accidental repair, home emergency and extended absence cover to protect you in a number of scenarios. These are not compulsory, but the majority will offer an extra layer of security, and may be more important depending on your lifestyle and activity.

Tenant Cover

This is similar to home-owner cover, but is designed for tenants who don’t own the property they currently inhabit and rent. These insurance policies are often more specialised because you won’t be taking out contents with building insurance; the latter is the responsibility of the landlord.

As such, you only need to protect your contents, not the building. Fires and other damage caused from the building itself may still affect your possessions, however, so a good cover policy will include many of these.

Landlord Cover

The opposite of tenant cover, this option is reserved for landlords, who own property but rent it out to someone else. Whether this is with landlord insurance specialist or with a regular building insurance company, the aim is to insure the building against damage and potential repairs. The costs may be different, as you’re not the one living in the building, but they also take this into consideration with the likelihood of an incidentoccurring.

Further protection should be offered for accidental repair and loss of rent. After all, as a landlord your buildings need to be repaired quickly to ensure your business and reputation aren’t damaged, and good insurance is the key to making this happen.

Student Cover

Student cover works similarly to tenant cover, protecting contents but not the building. Students often mistake themselves for being under their parents’ home insurance, but by living at another address this is not the case.

Student cover, then, solves this by providing cheap insurance that covers the many valuables that a student might own, such as laptops and expensive books. Most student insurance can come with contents insurance, but it is clear that this might not always be practical, especially if someone else is paying the building insurance, such as your landlord.

In conclusion, these are the more common types of insurance. Each option can then be specialised with extra offers or benefits, meaning that it is quite easy to find insurance quotes to suit you, such as LV home insurance quotes. Have you ever compared house insurance prices online?

As I’ve mentioned before on this blog, my husband and I are currently in the process of selling our current home and buying a new one. It’s a process that’s been full of more than a few headaches, and – quite frankly – one that I can’t wait to end. Now, we’re starting to consider a new mortgage move: taking out a 15-year mortgage instead of a more traditional 30-year fixed loan.

The Nuts And Bolts

If you haven’t gone through the home loan application process, here is a quick tutorial.

The most popular mortgage out there is a 30-year fixed loan; according to the LendersMark Financial Network, more than 70 percent of homeowners opt for this loan. Why? Because if offers a stable interest rate for three decades, giving you a chance to pay down even a hefty principle gradually over time. The downside, however, is the interest. Even at today’s interest rates in the mid-fours, you’ll still pay more than double your original loan amount thanks to interest.

Adjustable-rate mortgages – called ARMs – got a bad rap in the first decade of the 20th century as the housing market crumbled. However, these mortgages offer homeowners a much lower interest rate – and, thus, a far lower monthly payment – at the cost of a shorter term. A 10/1 ARM gives you a ten-year introductory period with that low rate, but once it expires, you could be paying market values, increasing your monthly payment by hundreds of dollars. Shorter ARMs – like a 3/1 loan – give you an even lower rate, as well as an even shorter introductory period.

So what’s a well-meaning homeowner to do? There is middle ground – the 15-year mortgage. This fixed-rate loan comes with lower interest rates – not quite as low as ARMs, but lower than 30-year loans – and a shorter time frame as well. Because of this shorter term, you’ll pay a higher monthly payment, but you’ll also pay less in interest over the life of the loan than you would with a 30-year fixed.

The Pros of a 15-Year Mortgage

Let’s break down the numbers to see exactly how much a 15-year mortgage could save you. Actually, not you – me. Because I’m going to use the actual numbers from my loan application, as well as the mortgage calculator from our preferred lender.

Right now, we could get a 15-year mortgage on a principle balance of $200,000 at a rate of 3.5 percent; by comparison, the rate for a 30-year mortgage would be 4.25 percent. Factor in the $2500/year tax and $1000/year homeowner insurance fees, and we’d be looking at:

  • $1275.55/month for the 30-year mortgage (paying a total of $459,196.72 over the 360 payments)
  • $1799.24/month for the 15-year mortgage (paying a total of $302,271.51 over 168 payments – that’s actually 14 years!)

(Because our lender offers PMI-free mortgages with a minimum 10 percent down payment – an industry rarity – we would save more than a hundred dollars a month as opposed to going with a loan that required private mortgage insurance.)

With the 15-year mortgage, we’d be paying about $524 a month more than with the longer term loan. However, over the life of the loan we’d pay a whopping $156,925.21 less.

Not So Fast…

Of course, these calculations aren’t as simple as they seem. The numbers from the a basic mortgage calculator only show part of the story. They assume that once you reach the end of your loan’s term that you won’t be paying escrow any more – but, as we all know, there are two certainties in life: death and taxes (and, in this case, homeowner’s insurance). I’ll be paying those two things for as long as I own the house, regardless of whether I’ve paid off the loan or not. That bumps the overall savings from $156,925.21 down to $104,425.21 – a difference of more than $52,000.

There’s another factor at play here, too: the impact on your taxes. Right now, the mortgage tax reduction allows homeowners to deduct the interest paid on their home loan. By losing that tax deduction for a period of 15 years – with our marginal tax rate of 25 percent – I’d lose out on another $7,586.21.

Also, what could I do with that extra $524 a month I’d be putting toward a 15-year mortgage? Say I invested it every month for 15 years in a Roth IRA with a modest return of 6 percent. By the time I was eligible to withdraw from the Roth at age 59 1/2 (29 years from now), I’d have amassed $354,012.05. Of that total amount, $259,692.05 would have come from interest. That far outweighs the $156,925.21 I’d be able to “save” with a 15-year mortgage – although it also assumes I’d do my due diligence by habitually investing the difference in monthly mortgage payments, without fail, every month… and we all know that’s easier said than done.

Reader, do you have a 15-year mortgage or a 30-year loan? What was the deciding factor for you in your home loan decision?

Perhaps you have a feeling job layoffs are coming so you are putting money aside. Or, maybe you have already been unpleasantly surprised and received the pink slip. If this is the case, you may be terrified when you realize you no longer have income coming in. While unemployment can be a stressful time, how you handle your finances can help determine whether you emerge unscathed or experience late payments and penalties.

Of course, it is important to meet all of your financial obligations, but you don’t want to fall behind on your mortgage payment. Luckily there are several strategies you can use to keep up with your home loan payments. Consider the following:

Steps to Take If You Haven’t Been Laid Off Yet

Refinance your mortgage now. Refinancing your mortgage will be very difficult once you lose your job, so if you think you might lose your job in the near future, refinance now. If you have a 15 year mortgage, perhaps draw it out to 30 years so your minimum payment is smaller. A drop in interest rate will also help you have a lower minimum payment.

Purchase unemployment insurance. While this insurance isn’t cheap (often costing as much as the PMI you pay monthly if you don’t have 20% or more of equity in your home), it can offer you protection. These policies cover your payments from 6 to 12 months. They may not pay your entire monthly payment, but they may pay enough that you can cover the rest without being financially burdened.

Steps to Take If You Have Already Been Laid Off

It is important to take steps BEFORE you default on your loan. Doing so gives you the best chance of keeping your home.

Contact the lender. You may think contacting the lender is the worst thing you can do, but it is not. Banks have had to handle plenty of foreclosures; if they can get the money from you by working with you, they want to do so. Let them know how much you can afford to pay a month and ask if they will lower the interest rate or refinance. Some may allow you to pay what you can now as long as you make up the difference when you are employed again. Others will let you modify your loan so that you temporarily pay interest only (usually for a period of 12 to 18 months).

Freeze your mortgage. If you go this route, you will need to hire an attorney who will contact the lender to challenge the loan, examining any possible lender errors in your mortgage as well as your ability to pay. This process can take several months to a few years, and during this time the lender cannot accept payments and cannot charge you interest.

While unemployment can be a scary time in your life, if you take appropriate steps, you can often work with your lender and come through your period of unemployment financially unscathed.

I’ll admit, it was a rash decision hiring her in the first place. I was in the midst of leaving my full-time job – and all its lucrative benefits – when I suddenly felt as if all the commercials reminding me to rollover my old 401(k) were speaking directly to me. When a friend recommended her financial planner, I took a bold, daring leap of faith. Scratch that – I took a stupid leap.

I landed in a pile of mud.

My Investment Portfolio

In addition to rolling over my 401(k) from my old job, I also let my new financial planner talk me into opening a series of new retirement accounts. She had me fill out a short questionnaire to gauge my tolerance for risk, then set me up with a spousal Roth IRA and a pair of 529 accounts for my children. In all, I decided to put $100 a month into my new Roth and $25 a month into each of the 529 plans. I wouldn’t be contributing to my traditional IRA, since I would be unable to tax advantage of its tax benefits, since I didn’t have a paycheck from which to pull out pre-tax contributions.

At the time – November of 2010 – my traditional IRA was worth $13,800. Since then, here’s how my accounts have grown over the past 18 months… or not:

  • Traditional IRA (initial value – $13,800): $14,400
  • Daughter’s 529 (initial value – $0*): $713
  • Son’s 529 (initial value -$0**): $527
  • Roth (initial value – $0***): $918

Legend:

* – In addition to contributing $25/month to this 529, I also added in my daughter’s Christmas money from relatives, resulting in an additional $300 in contributions

** – I couldn’t contribute to my son’s 529 until after his birth in May 2011. On top of the $25/month I put in from that point on, I also put in $250 in baptism and Christmas money he received last year

*** – After my husband’s work offered him a matching Roth IRA in July 2011, I scaled back my original $75/month investment in my spousal Roth to just $25, putting the difference into my husband’s Roth instead

My Contact With My Financial Planner

My planner – we’ll call her Ms. N – calls once a quarter to check in on us to see if we have any questions. I usually say no. What I should say is:

Why has my IRA only seen a 4% return over the last 18 months, while the Dow has seen returns more than quadruple that?

How have my children’s 529s actually LOST money?

Why has my Roth only earned $18 beyond what I’ve put into it?

Instead, I remain quiet. I try to be a good investor who patiently waits to for long-term results on her investments, instead of demanding immediate returns. I fear I am failing myself.

Why I Need To Move On

The problem is, I really like my financial planner. She’s a sweet lady. She always asks about my children. She invites us to her family’s annual holiday open house. She sends us birthday calls.

But our financial relationship isn’t working out. I’m up to my eyeballs in financial headlines every day because of my job as a freelance writer. Factor in my two children, my household, and my other freelance gig as a media research analyst, and I don’t have time to manage my own finances. I don’t have time to do the research to decide what’s best for my portfolio. That’s why I hired a financial planner; that’s why I pay her to manage my finances for me. If I had the time to do it myself, I would.

My father – who is a CFP, short for certified financial planner – also hires someone else to manage his investments. It may sound redundant, especially for a man who is so aptly qualified to do it himself, but he likes to get someone else’s perspective on his money management techniques. I’ve seen my father’s relationship with his CFP firsthand. Rather than sending my father financial literature on a mutual fund – which he doesn’t have time to read in the first place – his CFP makes a five-minute phone call to discuss it in person. If he can’t get ahold of my dad, he simply makes the move that he knows from years of experience is in my father’s best interest.

This is what I need – someone who is going to take control of my finances, who is going to not only answer the questions for me, but is going to ask them for me as well. Maybe it’s the lazy woman’s approach – although if you call me lazy, I’ll Ann Romney you to the moon (that’s to say, don’t insinuate that a mother is lazy – EVER) – but I need someone to be more proactive about my finances, not just about my family.

Let me start off by admitting that I am not rich. I was not born rich. I probably won’t die rich. In the intervening years, I will probably never be considered rich.

But for most of my life, I’ve had the privilege (and, some would say, the curse) to be surrounded by people who are rich. I grew up in an affluent suburb, where the average housing prices were in the $400,000 range (my family lived on the “wrong side of the tracks” – literally – in a house currently valued in the $231k range). I then went on to an elite East Coast university, where my freshman year roommate arrived on campus with a Coach luggage set crammed into the back of the BMW convertible she’d received as a high school graduation present. Since college, I’ve seen my friends go into lucrative fields like I-banking, law, and medicine, amassing obscene fortunes for 20- and 30-somethings in the midst of the economic recession.

The point is that, although I am not rich, I do know a lot about rich people.

And that’s where this list comes from. Part tongue-in-cheek, part stark reality, these are ten signs that you – or someone you know – might be rich:

  1. They go to a restaurant where prices aren’t listed on the menu (meaning they cost more than my monthly mortgage payment)… on a Tuesday night… and they’re not celebrating a birthday/anniversary/new job.
  2. They name their children horrendous names like Randolph Edward Channingsworth IV in honor of the family’s forebearers who earned, subsequently squandered, then redeemed the family’s inscrutable wealth. They endearingly call the over-monikkered child “Trad.”
  3. They don’t go on vacations; instead, they “summer.” Maybe they “summer” at the coast, or maybe they “summer” at the mountains. They never, ever go on road trips.
  4. They talk with a slightly British accent, a la Madonna, although they don’t have a single ancestor with ties to the United Kingdom.
  5. They fly first class. Seriously, nobody except a millionaire can afford to fly anything other than coach these days.
  6. When they say they have “season tickets at the Met,” they mean the Metropolitan Opera, not the New York baseball team.
  7. They are impeccably accessorized. If you comment on their Louis Moinet watch, they’ll brush it off – “This old thing? My parents gave it to me when I graduated from Haaaaaahvard” – but you’ll know it cost upwards of $2 million.
  8. They have a driving range in their attic (no, this is a true story – I recently met a man who has a full-fledged driving range in his attic; I didn’t believe it until he whipped out his iPhone to show me pictures).
  9. They have the job title “Consultant” printed in bold font on their business cards. When you ask them what exactly it is that they do, they reply, “Ohhh, you know, a little bit of this, and a little bit of that.” No, you don’t know.
  10. They call their gym a “health club.” They never use any of the cardio equipment, nor do they lift weights. At best, they may indulge in a game of racquetball or a round of golf, although they’re usually found hobnobbing in the steam room.

Reader, what quirky habits tip you off to someone’s wealth?

It started with a conversation with the mortgage broker down at my bank. My husband and I were looking into selling our current home and upgrading to a larger house, in hopes of taking advantage of ultra-low interest rates to secure a bigger house without a bigger mortgage payment.

“I see that you don’t have – ” he paused, shifting to his most serious tone of voice, ” – er, traditional employment.” He said those words – traditional employment - as though they’d be a shock to me and my husband. Obviously, they weren’t. We both were well aware of the fact that, as a freelance writer, my career path was outside the norm. I received 1099s every January instead of W-2s; I never filled out W-4s when starting a new project. I set my own hours, claimed my own projects, answered to no one but myself. My “non-traditional” employment was everything I’d always dreamed it would be: fun, flexible, freeing.

The bank didn’t see it that way.

My “Unstable” Income

As the mortgage broker went over the paperwork I’d brought in to launch the mortgage preapproval process, he hemmed and hawed over my numerous 1099 forms. He bristled when he saw the 1040 deduction schedule attached to my tax returns. He scoffed at many of the invoices I’d maintained to record who was paying me what and when.

“We won’t be able to acknowledge a lot of this,” he said, waving a few 1099s and invoices in his hand. I asked him why. “Well,” he started, then again paused, a habit I was quick to notice, “you haven’t been doing this [and by "this" he meant freelancing] for long enough. The underwriters want to see two full years of freelance employment before they consider your income to be stable.

Had he just called my income unstable?

Oh snap. He had.

The Instability Affect

At first, I thought my lack of so-called “stable” income would have a nominal affect on our mortgage application. By this point, I’d been freelancing in some capacity for more than a year and a half. When the mortgage broker announced that the underwriters wanted to see proof of at least two solid years of freelance experience, I figured the bank would probably average out the income I’d earned during 18 months of freelancing over the requisite 24 month period.

I thought wrong.

Banks and other lenders use two main financial factors when deciding on a loan application. Both of these factors revolve around something called your DTI, or debt-to-income ratio. The “front end” DTI ratio compares your monthly gross income and your estimated monthly mortgage payment. Underwriters want that front end number to be at or below 33 percent. For example:

$1300 (monthly mortgage payment estimate) / $4000 (gross monthly income) = 0.325, or 32.5 percent

That scenario would work out in your favor. Increase your estimated monthly mortgage payment by $100, however, and you’re looking at a front end DTI of 35 percent, well above the underwriters’ guidelines.

Meanwhile, the “bank end” DTI ratio compares your overall monthly debts – things like car payments and student loans, along with your mortgage – to your gross income. To be approved for a mortgage, you’ll need a back end DTI at or below 41 percent, although many banks prefer borrowers to have a back end DTI of 38 percent or less.

The underwriters opted to only count half of the income I’d earned freelancing over the previous year and a half, then spread that income out over 24 months. The result? While I had earned an average of $1200 or more a month, the bank only gave me credit for $450 a month. That left my husband and I well short of the DTI we needed to qualify for the mortgage we wanted.

Misery Loves Company

Turns out, I’m not the only one being called out for having a lack of stable income. Crystal, who writes “Budgeting In The Fun Stuff,” recently posted about her and her husband’s house hunt. The bank had done the same thing to Crystal and Mr. BFS that they’d done to me and my husband. Crystal and I talked about it, and came up with a singular conclusion:

Our income is more stable than the traditional employee’s.

How’s that, you say?

Think about most conventional jobs. You work for a single employer, earn a single paycheck. What happens if you get sick and can’t go in to work? You lose that one job, that one paycheck. What about if you get laid off or fired? Again, you lose that one job and the paycheck that went along with it. But in my case, if I’m sick, it doesn’t affect my work; I don’t have an office to go into or co-workers to infect, so even when I’m feeling ill, I am still able to work. And if, God forbid, one of my contractors were to fire me, I’d still be receiving paychecks from five others.

To recap:

  • You lose your traditional job, you lose 100 percent of your income
  • I lose one of my freelance contracts, I lose roughly 16% of my income

Whose income sounds more stable now?

Room To Negotiate

You have to know one thing about me: I like to argue. Negotiating should be my middle name, because I am good at it. Years ago, I received what I considered to be substandard service from a telecom provider. When I called the company’s customer service line, I asked the call representative to transfer me to his manager – I continued doing so until I was speaking to the company’s regional vice president. In the end, I haggled my way to six months of free service.

So naturally, it was my first instinct to argue with the mortgage broker about what the underwriters had decided regarding my monthly income. After all, I’d worked my butt off over the previous 18 months to get to a solid place financially and professionally. It was an insult to be credited for a mere third of that work. But when I started negotiating with the broker about my income, he said his hands were tied – he wasn’t at liberty to refute the underwriters’ decisions or to amend them in any way.

I left the bank knowing I had one of two options to move ahead:

  1. Wait until my freelance career reached the two year mark, at which point my husband and I would reapply for the second mortgage
  2. Shop around with other lenders, including banks and credit unions that make in-house application decisions, for an institution that will look at me and my work instead of just estimated numbers on a page

Ultimately, my husband and I decided to shop around, a process we’ve yet to complete.

Reader, do you agree with the bank – that I have an unstable income? Or do you agree with me, that I do have stable income? Why or why not?

You’ve probably seen a number of recent television commercials advertising quick and easy payday loans as a way to urgent financial need. Although it’s true that payday loans are a highly effective way to raise some quick cash, it’s crucial to remember that it’s not usually a good idea to take out a payday loan to pay off long-term or revolving debts.

Generally speaking, payday loans should only be taken out for financial emergencies, or for times when payment of a debt is absolutely imperative. By looking at sources such as MoneySupermarket.com and investigating your options, you can make an educated decision as to whether or not a payday loan is the best alternative to your financial difficulties.

Before taking out a payday loan, here are a few things to consider:

  • High interest rates: No matter how much or how little money you borrow, a payday loan is typically going to carry higher interest fees than other types of loans. One reason for this is that lenders carry a higher risk with payday loans. By not asking for other forms of collateral or security, lenders leave themselves more open to borrowers defaulting on the loan.
  • Processing fees: Payday loans sometimes carry higher processing and administrative fees, so you’ll need to be prepared to pay these off, in addition to the original loan amount and the interest it accrues.

When are payday loans a good idea?

There are a number of situations where taking out a payday loan can be an effective tool in straightening out your finances:

  • Emergencies: If you need to get a car fixed, or you have emergency medical care and you can’t negotiate terms with the billing office, then a payday loan is an effective way to raise quick cash.
  • Rent: Because rent payments are usually not negotiable, payday loans can be an excellent way to raise rent money when you simply don’t have it.
  • Debts: If it’s imperative that you put at least a small amount of money toward certain debts and you don’t have any disposable income available, then a payday loan may help you out of this crisis. Before taking out a loan, however, it’s important to see if you can negotiate the debt or ask for an extension.

When are payday loans not a good idea?

Typically, it may be better to consider other options for the following:

  • Paying utility bills: Unless you’ve been chronically late, utility companies will often give you extended deadlines on your payments.
  • Revolving charge card debt: Credit card companies are usually open to working with you on your payments. Likewise, you can also use a credit counseling service to help you negotiate lower minimum payments.
  • Medical expenses: Most hospitals, clinics and doctor’s offices will work with you on a payment plan, so check with the billing office before taking out a loan to pay off your bill.

If you’ve considered all your options and you still feel that it’s necessary to take out a payday loan, then researching rates at sites such as MoneySupermarket.com will help you get the best deal for your money.

I was standing in line at the grocery store, reading the latest tabloid headlines on the Princess Kate baby bump watch, when I couldn’t help but overhear the conversation going on ahead of me.

“You know we have a coupon for these in our circular,” the cashier was informing a customer, a well-dressed woman of about 40 years old. He was gesturing to a pair of 12-packs of Diet Pepsi the woman had in her cart.

She shrugged him off. “Oh, that’s all right,” the woman replied nonchalantly. She leaned over the register in a semi-secretive fashion. “I really shouldn’t be drinking them anyway,” she confided.

I was blown away. The cashier was telling the woman she could save an extra $1 a case – $2 in all – on a purchase she already intended to make. And what did she have to do to receive the discount? Simply walk over to the store’s entrance and pick up the in-store circular containing the aforementioned coupons. Instead, she said no thank you, paid for her order, and walked out the door without a second glance.

I Don’t Pay Full Price

I have a rule when I go out shopping: I don’t pay retail prices. It doesn’t matter where I am or what I’m buying. At the grocery store, I always scour the weekly ads – online at the store’s website, where I can see all the weekly promotions, not just the ones included in the printed circular – as I formulate my shopping list; then, I match that list up with coupons I already have. It takes me, what, an extra 15 minutes a week? But, over the course of the last year, that simple organization tactic has shaved an average of $25 a week off my grocery bill.

I do the same thing when I need to fill up my gas tank. As soon as my low gas light flickers on, I immediately head to the web to check out which local stations have the lowest gas prices (my favorite site to do this is GasBuddy, although there are now plenty of apps for iPhone and Droid platforms that let you do the same). I can see which station in my neighborhood is beating out the others when it comes to price without burning fuel cruising the streets. (Extra bonus if my Discover Card is offering 5% cashback on gas station purchases that month.)

Any time a family member or a friend has a birthday, I use my ability to avoid paying full price to both of our benefits. I head to sites like Plastic Jungle or Cardpool to snag discount gift cards to department stores, restaurants, and hotel chains I know my friends frequent. For example, my mom has a serious thing for Gap jeans. When her birthday rolls around, I hit up Plastic Jungle, where I can get a Gap gift card at a 9% discount. The result? I can score a $50 gift card for just $45.50 – meaning I can use the $5 I saved to get her a discounted Starbucks gift card as well!

Coupon Sites & Daily Deals

The web – and smartphone apps – are chalk full of sites designed specifically to help you pay the lowest amount of money for the greatest amount of goods. There are daily deal sites like Groupon, LivingSocial, Plum Deals, and Deal Chicken, all of which can offer you 40, 50, even 60 percent off a products and services in your area. Some of the daily deals they offer are simply gratuitous – I get that. I mean, who really needs 50% off 12 microdermabrasion treatments? But when my husband and I needed to get our carpets deep cleaned before an open house, we were able to pay $50 to have our first floor steam cleaned, instead of the full price of more than double that.

There are plenty of sites – and, again, apps – that help you find coupons as well. SmartSource and RedPlum, the two main coupon booklets you’ll find in your Sunday newspaper, also let you print out coupons on their websites. Other sites, like Retail Me Not, keep a catalog of coupons and special promotions – some uploaded by companies, some uploaded by fellow shoppers – to help you score discounts. All of these sites are absolutely free.

Why Pay Retail?

Even though it’s been several weeks since my encounter with the Diet Pepsi lady at the grocery store, I still can’t stop thinking about the episode. A 2011 survey found one-quarter of American adults are living paycheck to paycheck, meaning millions of us are looking for ways to cut costs and keep spending in line. It’s baffling to me that someone wouldn’t take advantage of an easy opportunity to save money.

Reader, how often to you pay full price, even when you know there’s a discount readily available? What are your reasons for eschewing coupons, daily deals, or other discount methods? Time? Convenience?

 

For the past two years, my husband and I have survived on a threadbare budget. We’ve said no to dinners out, to new clothes, to unnecessary trips across town. Whenever faced with the decision to spend or save, we always opted to put money away for a rainy day – we were convinced a deluge of biblical proportions was looming just over the horizon.

But as the years passed, no such deluge came. Instead of being flooded by rain, we found ourselves flooded by money. All the scrimping and saving we had done over the intervening years had allowed us to do all the things financial experts say you’re supposed to do: building up a six-month emergency fund (check), maxing out our 401(k) contributions (check), saving or investing at least 10 percent of our pre-tax income (check).

We were rife with money… but we weren’t having any fun with it. So six months ago, I loosened the purse strings. I made it rain money in my house. Booyah.

Going Overboard

The first few weeks after I stopped acting like Ebeneezer Scrooge, my husband and I went a hog wild. We spent $75 at a nice restaurant, not to celebrate a birthday or anniversary, but just because. I bought myself a new pair of jeans for the first time since getting pregnant with our oldest child… nearly four years prior. My husband purchased new tools, without a plan as to how he’d use them.

At the end of the first month of our new-found financial freedom, we reevaluated things. Although we’d still paid all our bills, maxed out our IRA contributions, and hadn’t dipped into our emergency fund, we’d failed to make extra payments on our existing debts (specifically, our car loan and my student loans). When we’d loosed the purse strings, the plan was to have fun with money. But by overspending, we’d gone back to where we were years prior, when money was tight: we were so worried about how much we had – or rather, didn’t have – that we weren’t having any fun anyway.

We had to rein it in.

Finding Balance

In month number two, we employed the allowance method. I gave my husband and I $50 each to do whatever we wanted. I expected him to spend it all on tools he wouldn’t (and didn’t know how to) use; he expected me to spend it all on shoes.

But we surprised each other.

Instead of blowing his $50 on a new power sander, my husband split his allowance into five allotments of $10 each:

  • He used $10 to go out to breakfast with his coworkers before work one morning
  • He used another $10 to enter a fantasy football bracket with some friends
  • He spent $10 for new insoles for his tennis shoes
  • He paid $10 to take our daughter to the children’s museum one rainy afternoon
  • He used the last $10 to go out for drinks to celebrate his friend’s 40th birthday

Likewise, I also broke my $50 down into smaller amounts:

  • I spent a total of $16 on four separate occasions to buy myself Starbucks before heading to the grocery store to shop
  • I bought a cool new color of toe nail polish for $5 instead of paying $25 for a pedicure
  • I used $10 to go out to lunch with my girlfriends
  • I paid $7 to buy a six-pack of my favorite adult beverage to share with my husband while watching football one weekend
  • I used $5 to participate in a Zumba-a-thon for charity at the YMCA

Faced with the decision to spend or save, I pocketed the remaining $7 to use the next month. I could also contribute to a CD. Check CD Rates here.

What We Learned

Without consulting the other, my husband and I both learned that $50 could go a long way. We employed many of the same budgeting strategies that had helped us build up our nest egg in the first place when it came to spending our monthly allowance money. It’s easy to learn how to save money – you simply reduce or eliminate your expenses and save as much as you can. I’d argue it’s harder to learn how to spend money, or, perhaps better said, to spend money wisely.

Several months have passed since we started the allowance system. Over that time, we’ve figured out what our “fun” financial priorities really are. To me, a $4 latte from Starbucks is priceless; it helps me relax during what can otherwise be a rather frenzied trip to the grocery store. To my husband, the $10 he spends every month to have breakfast with his coworkers before one of his dreaded weekend shifts puts him in a better frame of mind heading into work. I’ve never regretted the money I’ve spent on charity-related expenses, and I know my husband has never doubted the value of the money he spends on our children.

Reader, what are your financial priorities? What lessons have you learned when it comes to spending money?

A debt management plan is designed to simplify paying back your unsecured debts. It can reduce the size of your monthly payments, and it can allow you to just make one payment per month, which will be shared out between your lenders.

You can arrange a debt management plan by yourself or you can ask a debt management company to arrange it for you. This article refers mainly to professional debt management plans.

Who is eligible?

You must be unable to afford your current debt repayments.

You need to have more than one unsecured debt.

Once you have covered your essential costs every month, for example your mortgage repayments, you must have a reasonable amount of money left to pay your unsecured debts off.

Your income must be stable enough to contribute towards your unsecured debts each month.

What are the advantages?

If your lenders agree, you will pay a lower amount of money each month over a longer period of time. This will make your debt more manageable.

Your lenders may agree to freeze any interest and charges. This means that your debts will not be growing while you are paying them off.

You will benefit from knowing that you have a clear path out of debt. You will know how much you will be paying per month and how long it will take you to clear your unsecured debts.

If you are on a professional debt management plan, somebody will deal with your lenders for you. You can focus on paying the money back while a debt professional deals with all your letters and phone calls.

What are the disadvantages?

If you participate in a debt management plan, you will be making lower payments than originally agreed. Making lower payments on your debts will negatively affect your credit rating for up to six years.

Making lower payments can also mean you pay more interest in total (if your lenders don’t agree to freeze it).

You will have little money left over to spend on non-essentials, as almost all of your disposable income is meant to go towards paying off your unsecured debts.

If your income changes, for example if it drops drastically, your debt management plan could fail if it’s no longer be the best way to pay back your debts. If your income rises, however, you may have to pay more towards your debt management plan (which means you’d be out of debt faster).

If you are not sure what to do about your debts, contacting a debt professional will help you decide what’s best.

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